Life Food

Burdock chef avoids fusion obscurity

Sarah Rowland

By Sarah Rowland, 24 hours

Burdock & Co. serves up light and inventive dishes such as fresh oysters with finger lime caviar, French breakfast radish, chickweed, apple and verbena sorbet emulsion (forefront), as well as simple garden delights like beet salad with pickled vegetables (background). (PHOTO ISSHA MARIE)

Burdock & Co. serves up light and inventive dishes such as fresh oysters with finger lime caviar, French breakfast radish, chickweed, apple and verbena sorbet emulsion (forefront), as well as simple garden delights like beet salad with pickled vegetables (background). (PHOTO ISSHA MARIE)

Organic foodies rejoice! There’s a lovely new sustainable bistro in town. Burdock & Co. at 2702 Main St. serves up light, inventive dishes made with ingredients from local farms and urban gardens.

In addition to being fresh, everything on the menu titillates with palate-surprising flavour combos. But at the same time, chef Andrea Carlson’s creative flare is subtle in that she never tries too hard to blow your mind with contrived fusion obscurity. In other words, it’s refined culinary artistry – as opposed to celebrity chef showiness.

Dishes are meant to be shared. If you order two plates per person, you should be good – unless you order the harvest oxtail ramen with Swiss chard kimchi ($13). That’s because this substantial bowl of noodle goodness is a complete meal unto itself. It’s also one of my fave Burdock offerings. Another is the appetizer-sized fried chicken with pickled vegetables and charred chili vinegar ($14). For veggie heads, Carlson’s got you covered with plenty of spring-fresh garden delights.

When it comes to dessert, you should not leave without trying the salted caramel apple pot pie with vanilla ice cream ($8) or the selection of freshly baked gluten-free cookies.

Set in a modest-sized, sparsely decorated room, Burdock features a communal table, a row of booth seating as well as a quaint little bar. Now, if you’re looking for big portions of comfort food, then Burdock is probably not for you. But if you enjoy the ceremony of savouring inspired and delicate flavours in a cool, understated atmosphere, then you should check out Burdock & Co. For my money, it’s a nice addition to Vancouver’s ever-impressive restaurant landscape.

 

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