A diary of a journey through Torngat Mountains National Park.
MONDAY, AUG. 23:
8 a.m. Depart Goose Bay, Labrador by twin otter, stopping in Nain to refuel along the way. Scenery below changes constantly and dramatically, as rolling slopes transform into rugged, jutting mountains. Vegetation becomes more stunted as we travel north above the tree line, and snow patches become visible. At Saglek airstrip we transfer to a helicopter for the 10-minute ride to base camp.
11:30 a.m.: Arrive at base camp (Kangidluasuk.) There's a fully equipped kitchen, showers with hot running water and men and women's washrooms. Orange and white tents dot the camp, which is surrounded by beautiful scenery and secured by a 10,000-volt alarmed fence to keep out polar bears.
2:45 p.m. Tour of the new research and accommodation facilities under construction at base camp. Likely one of the most remote spots to hang an "Economic Action Plan" federal government sign.
4 p.m. Head off for a hike. Plentiful blueberries and redberries form a blanket on the land and crunch underfoot. Environment Minister Jim Prentice reels in a few Arctic char along with the Inuit fishers.
7 p.m. John Crosbie, the Lt.-Gov. of Newfoundland and Labrador, and his wife Jane are among the dinner group at the base camp. Making his first visit to the park, Crosbie was impressed with its natural beauty.
TUESDAY, AUG. 24:
8:30 a.m. Travel by speedboat into Saglek Fjord to Sallikuluk (Rose Island), passing spectacular icebergs and polar bears along the way. Traditional stone graves and one mass reburial make this site an emotional and culturally sensitive.
1:15 p.m. Travel to Hebron. Prentice unveils a new plaque to commemorate the architectural significance of the buildings. About 237 Inuit were forced to relocate from their homes in 1959 after a decision to close the settlement, established by Moravian missionaries in 1829. It was one of eight missions built on the Labrador coast between 1771 and 1904. Work is now underway to restore the original buildings, but the once-vibrant community and cemetery is run down and neglected. The forced relocation has left a sad legacy of poverty, alienation and trauma for generations of Inuit.
7 p.m. Presentation about the environmental assessment, decontamination and clean-up project underway in the park. Batteries and debris from airplane crashes and oil exploration have been collected. Caribou heart and risotto with sea urchin is the main course for dinner, prepared by chef Justin Igloliorte.
WEDNESDAY, AUG. 25:
9 a.m. Set off for a spectacular day of aerial exploration by helicopter. Heavy fog prevents us from reaching the northern extreme tip of the park.
11:30 Touch down at Iron Strand, a nine-kilometre stretch that features a sandy pink beach. This patch has been carved out of the official park boundaries because of potentially rich garnet resources.
2 p.m. Touch down at Nachvak Brook, where an inukshuk was erected to marks the spot of special beauty. This area is featured in television ads from the provincial government promoting tourism and the park.
THURSDAY, AUG. 26:
8:30 a.m. Take helicopter to departure point for North Arm Descent hike. Navigate about 15 km over steep, rocky terrain amid glorious mountains that tower more than 4,000 feet. It is a traditional travel route used by the Inuit and features stunning geography and some of the oldest rock on the planet. Hikers must remove boots and cross glacial streams with slippery stones under foot.
2 p.m. The plan to travel back to base camp by 55-foot longliner is scrapped. The weather is turning fast, requiring an early departure from base camp to avoid being grounded for days by fog.
6 p.m. Depart by chopper and twin otter back to Goose Bay.
